Not many of you know, Ama Dablam is the thirst most popular expedition peak of Nepal. Even though, the Six-Thousander peak doesn’t boast great height of the likes Everest, Makalu and Lhotse, it is still preferred by the climbers willing to tackle its technical difficulties.
Ama Dablam 6,812 meters is a Himalaya peak located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal. The phrase literally translates to “Mother’s Necklace” in the local dialect.
First climbed in 1961, many expeditions have been led since the commercialization of mountaineering. Moreover, it is globally known for its aesthetics. The sheer beauty of the mountain has seduced international companies to use its image for their logo or brand, namely; INVESCO Groups and Aqua Minerale (Russia).
Bear Grylls became the youngest Briton to climb Ama Dablam in 1997.
It is one of the most sought expeditions in Nepal. The full-length expedition may last well over a month, basically 32 days. The Southwest ridge remains open throughout the Sporing, Autumn and Winter seasons.
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You start from the Lukla, and trek slowly through the Khumbu region up to Dingboche. The trekking prior to climbing helps to make your body accustomed to the higher altitude. From Dingboche, you make your way towards the Ama Dablam Base Camp.
- The climb may last around 15 days. You’ll be accompanied by a Sherpa Guide, liaison officer, porters and other staffs to help establish ropes and routes, prepare meals and set up camps throughout the peak.
- Climbers generally setup 3 different camps. Camp III is located just below the hanging glacier of the summit.
- From Base Camp, you can approach for the Advanced Base Camp at 5,400 meters. The route leads north towards the Camp I. There are four or five tent platforms.
- From Camp I, you approach for the Camp II. The trail follows through the mixed grounds towards the Yellow Tower, a 15 meter pitch, just below Camp II. Camp II at 5,900 meters has very limited tent space (three or four tent platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used to store equipment dump, with expeditions choosing to climb up to the Camp III in a single push.
- From Camp II, the route leads through snows, ridges and gully towards the Camp III 6,300. It’s located directly below the hanging glacier of the summit.
- The push for summit is made through the snows and ice. You continue to skirt the peak on the right, and then move west to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. After Burgschrund is crossed, the climb heads directly to the ice crest. This is followed by a magnificent climb to the summit.